The cluster itself gives off a friendly glow when the lamps are illuminated at night, brightly lighting the numbers and lines and giving the rest of the panel a slight glow to make it easier to read, unlike most unfeeling clusters seen on many late model cars from all makers. The instrument cluster is neatly laid out, and having an indicator of gear selection on the cluster in addition to on the slapstick, in my opinion, is nice to have so you won't have to glance down. On the inside is where the magnificence of the Accord rests. Some of the more important things, such as the transmission fluid dipstick, the alternator, the oil filter, and probably a few other things, are in the seemingly most impossible places to easily access, however, which is a big drawback for anyone wanting to replace as much as possible to get the most out of their Accord. Under the hood is the norm of what you could expect in a 1988 compact sedan, but I will admit I am slightly impressed by the get-up-and-go I get without flooring it and with only 98 horsepower. The rear end, in my personal opinion, brings down the almost futuristic look, with its blocky, seemingly uninspired tail cluster. I've received several praises about my car, even though everything is stock (because it is an uncommon sight in my locale, among many Grand Ams and Tauruses). The hood line is very sporty by default, and the pop-up headlights give it an almost sexy look, along with a small increase in aerodynamic efficiency. The thing that's costing me the most in terms of keeping the car up and running is the fuel. The problems I've had were all minor in terms of monetary investment.
The routine rust is around the rear wheel wells and fuel door.
The radio refuses to remember my presets, it always reverts to the old ones when I turn the vehicle off.
#1988 honda accord lxi cracked
Windshield was slightly cracked by previous owner's daughter. Tachometer is choosy about working under warm/hot conditions. the motor will run at a certain speed, but will rough up. Sometimes when traveling ~25-30MPH I have troubles with it hunting or roughing, i.e. When fixing the radiator clip the first time, the single plastic loop that the screw for the vacuum advance went through broke, and until I can get $33 for a replacement I've JB-welded it back into place.Įxhaust rusting is extensive, the pipe broke right before the muffler at the time I got it, and I've clamped it back into place with some replacement pipe. Radiator hose (the one leading from the heads, through the bleed bolt to the heater) popped off at about 192k miles, the end was flayed pretty good and I've had several failed attempts and a bit of money put into new coolant because the clip's design is poor (and placed right below the distributor.) I've since fixed this. Sometimes after warm-up is complete and I drive off, it does not switch gears until ~4000RPM although in light driving conditions it should change at 15MPH, 25MPH, etc. Idles rough especially when the engine is warm or when it is hot out, I have tried a few things including carburetor cleaning and distributor cap replacement (since a plug was oxidized), and it cleaned up about 50% of the roughness. the fans do not turn on (though they do work for the coolant temp.)ĬV joints have been making a bit of clicking on turns, but the boots themselves are in excellent condition so I haven't bothered with them.īrakes started to show signs of wear at about 195k miles, but I haven't had the money or time yet to replace them before they become poor. A/C did not work from the start, at first I believed it needed a charge, but I have noticed that the system itself does not engage, i.e.